Harrows opens chicken pie outlet on Route 1 in Saugus

SAUGUS – Harrows Chicken Pies have come to roost on Route 1 north.For 71 years chicken pie lovers have had to drive to Reading in order to bring home one of Winifred Harrow’s specialties for dinner. In 2009 however, the Arsenault family branched out opening a storefront in Medford. Now they’re stepping out again, opening a store at the Shops at Saugus Plaza on Route 1 north, tucked into the building just north of Trader Joe’s.Wally Arsenault, who along with his brother Dan manages the family business, said the new location made sense, and if the grand opening was any indication, he’s right.On Thursday night the front of the small store was packed with well wishers, munching on hot chicken pie, rolls and cranberry sauce while the Andelman brothers of Phantom Gourmet-fame held court in the kitchen.Wally Arsenault explained the pies would still be made fresh in the Reading store each day, as they have been for seven decades, and would be shipped to Saugus each morning.”The only cooking we do here is heating a pie if someone wants one hot,” he said.Charles Harrow started Harrows Chicken Pies in 1938 with his wife’s recipe.In 1940 Walter Arsenault, father of Wally and Dan, went to work for the family and never left.Over the years all the Arsenaults have worked for Harrows including Wally and Dan’s mother, Shirley, and their other five siblings. It has even stretched into a third generation with Wally’s son Eric now the kitchen manager of the Reading store.”I grew up working for my dad,” Wally said. “I was probably 10 when I started.”It was 1956, Wally said, when his father officially took over the business and the pie they sell today is largely the same pie Mrs. Harrow developed all those years ago.”It is a guarded secret,” Wally Arsenault said. “We’ve made minor changes over the years but it’s the same basic recipe.”It’s a recipe, he said, that includes no preservatives and only fresh vegetables, non-processed chicken and lots of homemade gravy. The chicken, he said, is slow-cooked overnight and the crust made from scratch.The Reading store was also formerly home to a restaurant, but Arsenault said they closed that to concentrate on the pies.”We decided it was the one thing we do better than anyone else,” he said.People are always offering suggestions for expanding the menu but Arsenault said the family has decided it likes it the way it is, with a singular focus on the chicken pie.Harrows does offer side dishes such as mashed potatoes, squash, chicken salad, chicken soup or extra chicken gravy. It also offers dessert in the form of blueberry or apple pie.”It’s pretty basic but it’s comfort food,” Wally said. “That’s a big draw and it’s a good alternative to fast food.”Despite all their years in the business both Wally and Dan say they still eat chicken pie regularly.”And every time I do,” said Dan Arsenault, “I’m amazed at how good it is.”The store is open seven days a week from 10 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. The chicken pies can be ordered ahead to pick up hot and ready to eat, and are available in four sizes, ranging from 1-6 servings and cost ranging from $5.25 to $19.95. For more information call the store at 781-231-7410 or check them out online at www.chickenpie.com