BOSTON — Charlie Gaeta smiles widely as he approaches a youngish couple sitting at a window table in Orfano, Tiffani Faison’s new Italian-American restaurant in the Fenway that has drawn raves from critics and customers alike. It’s the week before Christmas and the joint is jumping.
The couple is relaxing post-meal and compliments Gaeta, a 34-year-old Lynn native who is Orfano’s wine director, for his recommendations. The three chat and Gaeta disappears for a minute, then returns with two bottles of dessert wines he thinks would be the perfect end to their dinner.
He describes the merits of each, and in unison they say “Yes, please.” Gaeta pours, and they raise their glasses and toast the sommelier. “Thank you for making this a very special day for us,” they gush.
For the past hour, Gaeta has done this at numerous tables throughout the restaurant. During our chat at the Orfano bar, he apologized and then ran off to take care of a couple that had just become engaged. He’s personable, engaging and focused on providing hospitality to the customers.
Yup, Charlie Gaeta brings a lot to the table, if you will.
And he’s one happy guy.
Charles J. Gaeta Jr., the son of Liz and Charles J. Gaeta, executive director of Lynn Housing Authority and Neighborhood Development agency, grew up in Lynn’s Pine Hill section and attended Sewell-Anderson Elementary, St. Mary’s junior high and is a 2003 graduate of St. John’s Prep. He was a classmate and best friend of Pete Frates, the ALS Ice Bucket Challenge founder, who died Dec. 9. Gaeta was a pallbearer at Frates’ funeral.
He graduated from Providence College as an English major and landed a position at a prominent New York City investment firm. The city’s restaurant scene fascinated him — he dined out nightly — and he was especially interested in learning more about the wine he drank and the hospitality business in general.
So, in 2008, he quit his fast-track job and moved back to Lynn, where he landed a job busing tables at The Blue Ox. He worked his way up the ranks and eventually became a bartender.
“At the bar, I barely made my way through the first shift,” he said with a grin.
At Orfano, Gaeta has curated a beautiful, eclectic list of wines ranging from $35 to $480, ensuring there’s something for every guest. His wines by the glass list is also impressive, accessible and priced fairly, whether you’re talking whites, reds or bubbles.
Gaeta also develops and oversees the wine programs at Faison’s Big Heart Hospitality group’s other three Boylston Street boites: Tiger Mama, Sweet Cheeks Q, and Fool’s Errand. He lives on the same block, and divvies his time between all. All four restaurants are different, posing a delightful challenge for Gaeta. At Tiger Mama, his list of wines (rieslings, light reds, champagnes) compliment the bold flavors of the southeast Asian dishes.
“Charlie has been such an incredible addition to the Big Heart Hospitality family,” said Faison, chef and owner, “not only for his incredible knowledge and professionalism, but also his kindness, love for hospitality and willingness to completely embrace and champion the ethos of (the restaurant group). It’s hard to remember a time before CG was in our fam,”
“I’ve never regretted my decision, of giving up stability,” Gaeta said. “My parents’ and brother’s support was constant, though some of my friends thought I was crazy,” he said. “I liked working at the restaurant, and taking care of people in a positive way and talking to guests. I’m enamored with the entire industry. My career started to blossom at The Blue Ox, and I’m forever thankful for getting the opportunity there. Getting my start in the city I grew up in was great.”
In 2016, as general manager and beverage director at the Ox, he left to become wine director of Branch Line in Watertown, which Boston magazine named the Best of Boston Wine Program. He also worked with Rachel Miller when her Nightshade pop-ups were all the rage, and served as wine consultant at Salem’s Ledger, owned by his former Blue Ox boss Matt O’Neil. He met Faison through a mutual friend who admired his creative touch at Ledger, particularly his events that mixed wine with old-school hip-hop.
Gaeta attended the Boston University School of Hospitality for four semesters, pursuing his sommelier certification, a professional accomplishment he has achieved. He’s spent a good amount of time in Italy as well as Napa, Sonoma, and Santa Barbara in California. He’s also traveled to Germany, France, Corsica, and Oregon, where he attended a sommelier camp.
Did he grow up in a wine-loving household? Heavens no. “I wish I had a story like ‘Oh, my dad had a huge wine cellar,’ but the truth is I drank beer and probably stuff like Crown Royal.”
Gaeta is looking forward to spending the Christmas holiday in Lynn with his parents, brother Chris, sister-in-law Justina and nephew Christian.
